Drain with traditional or modern technology?

There may be many reasons as to why water penetrates into your basement. For example, the water pressure against the foundation wall, may be too high causing water to seep into the basement wall. Another reason may be that there are weaknesses or direct faults in the interior construction. There are a number of different measures which can solve the problem short- term but only two that offer a reasonably permanent solution.

High water pressure against the foundation wall

This problem consists either of incorrect ground slope towards the house, causing rainwater to flow towards rather than away from the house. Or the level of water intake being too high due to gutters, irrigation of flower beds, leaking outdoor taps, melting of snow or, abnormally abundant precipitation.

Water penetrating the basement wall

The most common cause of this is deficiencies in the drainage system, where it is either completely missing, incorrectly installed or has become damaged over the years. Other causes include water that is absorbed by the capillary force, poor thermal insulation, and waterproofing on the outside that prevents moisture from escaping. It can also be due to negligence or deliberate errors in the construction process.

Internal weaknesses or faults

Problems with damp can be due to condensation forming in rooms where large temperature differences between the outside and inside occur, for example in the laundry room. It may also be due to leakage from old or frost-blown pipes or to internal thermal insulation preventing moisture in the basement from escaping.

Prevention

If you are planning on converting your basement into bedrooms or living areas, you should start by eliminating the risks of problems with damp where they can occur. Some examples of preventive measures are:

• Drain water from gutters and the house - extend the pipes during extra rainy periods.
• Repair leaking outdoor faucets.
• Do not water next to the basement wall.
• Remove snow from the immediate vicinity of the house.
• Reinforce the ventilation with fans.
• Keep basement windows closed in the summer.
• Place heavy and bulky furniture at a distance from exterior walls.
• Install a dehumidifier.

If you still have problems with damp, it is probably due to a leaking foundation wall and then you literally have to get to the bottom of your moisture problem.

Traditional "permanent" measures

For over 2,000 years, buildings have been drained by digging down perforated pipes along the foundation of the houe. In the past, pipes made of brick or concrete were used, but today they are usually made of plastic. First you dig an approx. 1-meter-wide ditch next to the basement wall, half a meter below the lowest point of the house (base sole). Before laying the pipe in place, a non-woven fabric is laid in order to prevent the surrounding soil from clogging the pipes. Then you cover the pipes with drainage gravel, fold the non-woven fabric, place additional drainage gravel and then place a final layer of base course.

In addition to this, the basement wall is usually also given some protection from damp, either by brushing on cold asphalt, using a plastic mat (so-called Platon mat), or by using draining cellular plastic boards.

An advantage of traditional drainage is that, if properly executed, it has a lifespan of about 40 years. The disadvantages are that the method is relatively expensive with additional costs for excavators, removal of soil masses and, not least, the restoration of patios, flower beds, tiling, entrance areas and lawns. In some cases, the method is also impossible to use due to issues with neighbors and the surrounding environment.

Modern permanent measures

Unlike traditional methods, Electro Drain drains without either excavators, drainage pipes or plastic mats. All the work takes place indoors. The system dehumidifies walls and foundations by charging the water with positive ions (electrical endosmosis) whereby the positively charged water is drawn out towards the surrounding earth, which is naturally negatively charged. The positive ions also prevent ambient water from penetrating and thus form a permanent moisture barrier.

The installation usually takes place in one day and causes minimal damage to the property. A series of small holes are drilled in the lower edge of the basement wall where thin electrodes are placed. These are connected to each other and to a control box (ion generator). Wires are hidden by grooves in the wall or behind the floorboards. The control box automatically adjusts the current according to the humidity in the wall. The effect is promised within 90 days and lasts as long as the system is in operation.

Electro Drain's technology has approximately the same expected life span as traditional methods (35-50 years) and has a relatively low cost for both purchase, installation and operation (electricity cost approx. SEK 50 - 100 per year). Another great advantage is that you avoid damage to gardens, patios, entrance areas, etc., and the costs required to restore them.

The disadvantages are that the technology is best suited for uncovered walls, any panel or plasterboard must therefore be partially dismantled to be reassembled after installation. However, compared to restoring a garden, these are relatively small and inexpensive measures.

Choosing the wrong method can be a costly experience

Electro Drains technology comes along with a10-year product guarantee and a 90-day performance guarantee. If we have not achieved the promised result, we will dismantle the control box and tear up your invoice. Electrodes and wiring are left in your walls, hidden behind plaster or the floorboards.

A failed traditional drainage can entail large renovation costs. The site must be excavated again, and both the moisture barrier and the drainage pipes must be replaced. Internal decontamination may be necessary; structures demolished, and infested timber replaced. A large problem is that you do not know how bad it is until you have dug up around the house. In the worst-case scenario, it may prove impossible to lay the drainage at the recommended depth. There you are left with a problem that cannot be solved using traditional technology and a house that you have dug up completely unnecessarily. There is also a risk that water is still being sucked into the plate itself, where the capillary force is greatest, and where it is difficult to reach.